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10 Uses for a Cordelette

By Scott Perkins, Head Guide 1) S.E.R.E.N.E. anchor when constructing a gear belay 2) Tie a ‘Quad’ for 2 piece belays and top ropes 3) Create an extended rappel with 3rd hand Autoblock 4) Escape a belay 5) Ascend a rope 6) Tie a “rescue spider” for tandem rappels 7) Cut it up for bail…

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Vectors for Climbers

We’ve all heard about vectors.  In physics, a vectors is loosely defined as an entity outlining the magnitude and direction of a force.  The concept is important because–as we teach our clients–it is important to be aware in our climbing practices of how we multiply or add forces in our favor–or multiply or add forces to work against us.   Loosely, one way…

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Medical Kits Part 1: The Componential Kit and the CPOD

  The approach I advocate for quickly adapting your medical kit for different outings is to have a componential kit with various “pods” that serve different purposes.  Today we will discuss the “core” pod or “CPOD”—the lightest, simplest most important pod for most situations that you will keep with you most everywhere and at most times. …

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